Gravadlax. Rose quartz. Calamine. Taffy. Watermelon. Elastoplast. No, it’s not the world’s most esoteric shopping list, but the colours you need in your wardrobe this season. The names are bewildering, but the message is clear: this season is about pink. But not as you know it.
When this spring’s collections hit the catwalks last September, New York’s post-punk, rave-referencing Marc Jacobs stirred controversy, with the flamingo- and fuchsia-coloured dreadlocks worn by Kendall Jenner and the Hadid sisters, sparking a row about cultural appropriation. Next came London, where milliner Stephen Jones dreamed up outsize pirate hats to match Ryan Lo’s Venetian harlequin-printed jumpsuits in fuchsia satin.
Then it was straight from Milan airport to the Gucci catwalk show, where we found ourselves in a tripped-out, tricked-out, all-pink venue. A lush carpet in magenta stripes was dotted with candyfloss velvet banquettes against pink mirror-tiled walls. Through a dry-ice fug that intensified the womb-like intensity of the venue, the first model stepped out from behind glittering curtains in a pink blouse, peony-bright lapels laid proud and wide over a grey-and-pink windowpane check blazer and topped with a rose-trimmed pink turban and enormous sunset-tinted sunglasses.